Remember that the total water circuit length, which is the length of any circuit from the water entry point to the exit point where it goes back to the heating or cooling system, should not exceed 4-41?2 ft (54 inches). I reduce the 54 inches depending on the pumping pressure and the mold water temperature.
If the temperature of the water circuit outlet is higher by more than 5 deg F over the inlet temperature, I start getting rid of loops and quick disconnects and shorten the overall length of each waterline circuit until I get the amount of heat extracted from each circuit down to workable limits.
I also monitor the pressure drop on each circuit and try to keep it to within 5-15 psi. Every molder should install gauges in the waterlines to monitor temperature, pressure, and gallons per minute of flow. It’s also possible that this molder didn’t have pack and hold pressures set high enough. An important point to remember here is that the injection pressure should be set to fill out the parts and control parting line flash, while the pack and hold settings should pack out any sinks and voids that show up in the thick sections.
Another option is inconsistency in the material’s melt flow that varies from one shipment to another. The material could be a wide-spec or what I hear called a “pencil prime.” (Not all wide-spec materials are bad in the melt flow area, but quite a few of them are.)
Bye-bye, sink
Now that you know the potential issues, here’s what we did to fix it. First, we replaced the check valve on the end of the screw. Next, we resized the sprue bushing, runners, and gates. The sprue O-diameter increased from .210 to .312 inch. The nozzle orifice that feeds the sprue bushing went from .200 to .290 inch. The main runner diameter increased from .255 to .275 inch, but the subrunner stayed at .260 inch. We left the gate depth at .160 inch deep, changed the gate width from .130 to .200 inch, and shortened the gate land length from .180 to .030 inch.
We got rid of the waterline quick disconnects and eliminated the waterline hose jumpers in favor of hose barb connectors. But the problem was solved by the new check valve. The rest of the changes were just frosting on the cake.
The molder called back and thanked me for all the help, but he said he had just one more question: “Where do I find a good plater that can electroplate plastic parts without warping them?” I first told him he was on his own for that answer. Nobody wants to tell you who their favorite chrome plater is; it’s like giving out the name of your favorite tool shop. If you start sharing your best sources with everyone, then the plater or moldmaker will get too busy to do work for you.
However, I went ahead and gave him the names of a couple plating companies that I used to do business with, but who knows if they are still in business. Hopefully they are.
November, 2006 - Reprinted with permission from Injection Molding Magazine. Copyright © Canon Communications LLC. |